Complete Roofing Process (Start to Finish)

Complete Residential Roofing Process: Start to Finish

Professional Guide to Full Roof Replacement from Arrival to Final Inspection

⚠️ SAFETY WARNING

Residential roofing is one of the most dangerous construction activities - falls are the leading cause of construction deaths.

  • Falls from roofs are often fatal - proper fall protection is MANDATORY
  • Heavy materials (shingle bundles 70-80 lbs) cause back injuries
  • Power tools on roofs are extremely dangerous
  • Debris falling from roofs can injure people below
  • Heat exhaustion is common in summer (roof temps reach 150°F+)
  • This guide is educational - PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION STRONGLY RECOMMENDED

Overview: The Complete Roofing Process

A professional roof replacement typically takes 2-4 days for an average home (1,500 sq ft roof). This guide covers every step from arrival to final cleanup, exactly as we do it at RJ Roofing Bros.

Timeline:

  • Day 1 (Morning): Site setup, material delivery, tear-off
  • Day 1 (Afternoon): Deck inspection/repair, underlayment, drip edge
  • Day 2: Shingle installation, flashing, penetrations
  • Day 3: Ridge cap, final inspection, cleanup

PRE-ARRIVAL PREPARATION (Day Before)

Homeowner Preparation

Exterior:

  • Move vehicles from driveway (need space for dumpster and boom truck)
  • Remove items from walls (vibration will knock things down)
  • Trim overhanging branches within 6 feet of roof
  • Clear path to electrical panel (may need to shut off power)
  • Protect landscaping (cover plants near house)
  • Notify neighbors (noise, dust, trucks)

Interior:

  • Remove items from attic (dust will fall through)
  • Cover attic items with tarps
  • Remove fragile items from walls (vibration)
  • Plan for pets (keep them inside or away from work area)

Contractor Preparation

Material Ordering:

  • Calculate squares needed (roof sq ft ÷ 100, add 10% waste)
  • Order shingles (ensure same lot number for color consistency)
  • Order underlayment, ice & water shield, drip edge, ridge cap
  • Schedule boom truck delivery (if applicable)
  • Arrange dumpster delivery

Crew & Equipment:

  • Crew size: 3-5 workers for average home
  • Tools: Roofing nailers, compressor, ladders, safety equipment
  • Verify weather forecast (no rain for 3-4 days)

DAY 1 MORNING: SITE SETUP & MATERIAL DELIVERY

Step 1: Site Setup (7:00 AM - 7:30 AM)

Dumpster Placement:

  1. Position dumpster: As close to house as possible (minimizes carrying distance)
  2. Protect driveway: Place plywood under dumpster wheels
  3. Clear landing zone: Area below roof edge for debris chute

Ground Protection:

  1. Lay tarps: Around house perimeter to catch debris and nails
  2. Protect landscaping: Cover plants, gardens, AC units with plywood
  3. Set up debris chute: From roof to dumpster (if applicable)

Safety Setup:

  1. Post warning signs: "Caution: Roofing Work Above"
  2. Rope off work area: Keep people away from falling debris zone
  3. Inspect ladders: Ensure stability, proper angle (4:1 ratio)

Step 2: Material Delivery (7:30 AM - 8:30 AM)

Boom Truck Delivery (Professional Method):

  1. Boom truck arrives: Hydraulic crane on truck bed
  2. Position truck: Within reach of roof (typically 30-40 feet)
  3. Extend boom: Hydraulic arm extends over roof
  4. Lift bundles: Shingles lifted directly onto roof
    • Distribute evenly (prevents overloading one area)
    • Place on ridge or strong points (not in valleys)
    • Typically 3-4 bundles per stack
  5. Advantages: Fast (15-30 minutes), reduces crew fatigue, safer than hand-carrying

Manual Delivery (DIY/Small Jobs):

  1. Stage materials at ground level: Near ladder access
  2. Carry bundles up ladder:
    • Shingle bundles: 70-80 lbs (2-person carry recommended)
    • Use ladder hoist or pulley system
    • Never carry more than you can safely handle
  3. Distribute on roof: Spread weight evenly

Materials Delivered to Roof:

  • Shingle bundles (3 bundles = 1 square = 100 sq ft coverage)
  • Underlayment rolls
  • Ice & water shield rolls
  • Ridge cap bundles
  • Starter strip

Materials Staged at Ground:

  • Drip edge (eave and rake)
  • Valley flashing
  • Pipe boots, vents, flashing
  • Nails, roofing cement, caulk

Step 3: Tear-Off (8:30 AM - 12:00 PM)

⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY

Tear-off is the most dangerous phase. Loose shingles are slippery. Nails are everywhere. Debris is falling. Full crew awareness is essential.

Tear-Off Process:

  1. Start at ridge: Work from top down (shingles overlap downward)
  2. Use roofing shovel/fork:
    • Slide under shingles
    • Pry up and push toward eave
    • Work in sections (don't expose entire roof at once)
  3. Remove all layers:
    • Shingles
    • Underlayment (felt paper)
    • Old drip edge
    • All nails (critical - protruding nails puncture new underlayment)
  4. Debris management:
    • Push debris to eave
    • Use debris chute to dumpster
    • Or throw directly into dumpster (if close enough)
    • Keep roof clear of debris (tripping hazard)
  5. Nail removal:
    • Pull all protruding nails with hammer or cat's paw
    • Pound down nails that can't be pulled
    • Sweep deck thoroughly

Common Tear-Off Challenges:

  • Multiple layers: Some roofs have 2-3 layers (takes longer)
  • Stuck shingles: Heat-sealed shingles are difficult to remove
  • Damaged deck: Rotten plywood discovered during tear-off

DAY 1 AFTERNOON: DECK PREP & UNDERLAYMENT

Step 4: Deck Inspection & Repair (12:00 PM - 2:00 PM)

Inspection Process:

  1. Walk entire deck: Check for soft spots, rot, damage
  2. Look for water stains: Indicates previous leaks
  3. Check deck thickness: Minimum 7/16" OSB or 1/2" plywood
  4. Verify rafter spacing: Should be 16" or 24" on center
  5. Inspect for sagging: Indicates structural issues

Common Deck Issues:

  • Soft spots: Rot from previous leaks (replace affected sheets)
  • Delamination: OSB layers separating (replace)
  • Gaps between sheets: Normal (1/8" expansion gap), but check for excessive gaps
  • Protruding nails: Pull or pound down

Deck Repair:

  1. Mark damaged areas: Chalk outline around rot/damage
  2. Cut out damaged section:
    • Use circular saw set to deck thickness
    • Cut to nearest rafter (need solid nailing surface)
  3. Install new plywood/OSB:
    • Same thickness as existing deck
    • Nail every 6 inches along rafters
    • Leave 1/8" gap for expansion
  4. Photograph damage: Document for homeowner/insurance

Step 5: Install Drip Edge at Eaves (2:00 PM - 2:30 PM)

Why Eaves First:

Drip edge at eaves goes UNDER underlayment. Drip edge at rakes goes OVER underlayment. This ensures proper water flow.

Installation:

  1. Start at one end: Align drip edge flush with fascia
  2. Nail every 12 inches: Along top edge
  3. Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet
  4. Extend past fascia: 1/2 inch overhang into gutter
  5. Install along entire eave: All eave edges

Step 6: Install Ice & Water Shield (2:30 PM - 3:30 PM)

Critical Waterproofing Layer:

Ice & water shield is a self-adhering waterproof membrane. This is your last line of defense against ice dams and wind-driven rain.

Installation:

  1. Start at eaves: Apply first course along entire eave
  2. Extend 36-72 inches:
    • Code minimum: 36 inches from eave
    • RJ Roofing Bros standard: 72 inches (Hope/Harrison)
    • Covers area prone to ice dams
  3. Peel and stick:
    • Remove backing paper
    • Press firmly to deck
    • Use roller to ensure adhesion
  4. Overlap 6 inches: Where courses meet
  5. Apply to valleys:
    • 36 inches wide (18" each side of valley center)
    • Full length of valley
  6. Seal penetrations: Around chimneys, skylights, plumbing vents

Step 7: Install Synthetic Underlayment (3:30 PM - 5:00 PM)

Primary Waterproofing Layer:

Synthetic underlayment is your primary defense. We NEVER use felt paper - synthetic is superior in every way.

Installation:

  1. Start at eaves:
    • Align with drip edge
    • Overlap ice & water shield by 6 inches
  2. Roll horizontally: Work up the roof
  3. Overlap 6 inches: Each course overlaps the one below
  4. Nail or staple:
    • Every 12 inches along seams
    • Every 24 inches in field
    • Cap nails or staples (large head)
  5. Keep wrinkle-free: Smooth as you go
  6. Overlap ridges: 6 inches over peak

Step 8: Install Drip Edge at Rakes (5:00 PM - 5:30 PM)

Rake Drip Edge Goes OVER Underlayment:

  1. Apply over underlayment: Along gable ends (rakes)
  2. Nail every 12 inches: Through underlayment into deck
  3. Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet

End of Day 1: Weatherproofing Check

Critical: Roof must be weatherproof overnight.

  • All underlayment installed
  • No exposed deck
  • Tarps over any incomplete areas
  • Tools and materials secured

DAY 2: SHINGLE INSTALLATION

Step 9: Install Valley Flashing (7:00 AM - 8:00 AM)

Open Valley Method (Our Standard):

  1. Center flashing in valley: 24-36 inch wide metal
  2. Nail edges only: 1 inch from edge, every 12 inches
  3. Overlap upslope: 12 inches where pieces meet
  4. Seal laps: With roofing cement

Step 10: Install Starter Strip (8:00 AM - 9:00 AM)

Critical First Course:

  1. Use starter strip shingles: Pre-made or cut regular shingles
  2. Align with drip edge: Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch
  3. Nail 3-4 inches from edge: Above adhesive strip
  4. Butt joints tightly: No gaps between pieces
  5. Install along eaves and rakes: Entire perimeter

Step 11: Establish Chalk Lines (9:00 AM - 9:30 AM)

Ensure Straight Courses:

  1. Measure shingle exposure: Typically 5-5/8 inches for architectural
  2. Snap horizontal lines: Every 2-3 courses (10-17 inches)
  3. Snap vertical lines: Every 3-4 feet to maintain alignment
  4. Use contrasting chalk: Red or blue (not white)

Step 12: Install Field Shingles (9:30 AM - 5:00 PM)

Nailing Pattern (CRITICAL):

  • Standard areas: 4 nails per shingle (code minimum)
  • High-wind areas: 6 nails per shingle (Hope, Chilliwack, Agassiz)
  • Nail placement:
    • Just below adhesive strip
    • 1 inch from edges
    • Flush with shingle surface (not over-driven, not under-driven)

Installation Process:

  1. First course:
    • Align with chalk line
    • Overhang drip edge 1/2 to 3/4 inch
    • Nail properly (4-6 nails per shingle)
  2. Subsequent courses:
    • Offset joints 6+ inches from course below
    • Align with chalk lines every 2-3 courses
    • Maintain consistent 5-5/8 inch exposure
    • Work across and up
  3. Valley cuts:
    • Snap chalk line 2-3 inches from valley center
    • Cut shingles along line
    • Clip corners 45 degrees
    • Seal cut edges with roofing cement
  4. Rake cuts:
    • Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch past drip edge
    • Cut from top for clean edge

Step 13: Flash Penetrations (Throughout Day 2)

Plumbing Vents:

  1. Install pipe boot: Slide over pipe, nail flange
  2. Shingle over flange: Top and sides covered, bottom exposed
  3. Seal with caulk: Around pipe-to-boot junction

Roof Vents:

  1. Position vent: Over opening in deck
  2. Nail flange: To deck
  3. Shingle over flange: Top and sides covered

Chimneys (Complex - See Dedicated Guide):

  1. Base flashing at bottom
  2. Step flashing on sides (one piece per course)
  3. Counter flashing embedded in mortar
  4. Cricket on upslope side (if chimney is 30+ inches wide)

DAY 3: RIDGE CAP & FINAL DETAILS

Step 14: Install Ridge Cap Shingles (7:00 AM - 10:00 AM)

Final Waterproofing:

  1. Use ridge cap shingles: Pre-made or cut from regular shingles
  2. Start at end opposite prevailing wind: Wind blows over laps, not under
  3. Overlap 5-6 inches: Each cap overlaps previous
  4. Nail each side:
    • 1 inch from edge
    • 5-1/2 inches from end
    • 2 nails per cap (one each side)
  5. Seal final cap: Dab of roofing cement under last cap

Step 15: Final Inspection (10:00 AM - 11:00 AM)

Quality Control Checklist:

  • ✓ All shingles properly nailed (no visible nails, no lifted edges)
  • ✓ Straight courses (no waves or dips)
  • ✓ Proper overhang at eaves and rakes (1/2 to 3/4 inch)
  • ✓ Valley cuts clean and sealed
  • ✓ Ridge caps secure and overlapping correctly
  • ✓ All penetrations properly flashed
  • ✓ No exposed underlayment or ice & water shield
  • ✓ No debris on roof

Step 16: Cleanup (11:00 AM - 1:00 PM)

Thorough Site Cleanup:

  1. Roof cleanup:
    • Remove all debris, packaging, cutoffs
    • Sweep entire roof
    • Check gutters for debris
  2. Ground cleanup:
    • Magnetic sweep (picks up nails)
    • Run magnet over entire property (driveway, lawn, walkways)
    • Multiple passes (nails are everywhere)
  3. Remove tarps: Shake out debris before folding
  4. Clean gutters: Remove granules and debris
  5. Haul away dumpster: Schedule pickup
  6. Final walkthrough with homeowner: Show completed work

PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS: RJ ROOFING BROS

What Sets Professional Installation Apart

1. Proper Nailing (6-Nail Protocol)

  • We use 6 nails per shingle in Fraser Valley (code requires 4)
  • Wind uplift resistance is critical in our area
  • Proper nail depth (flush, not over-driven)

2. Extended Ice & Water Shield

  • We install 72 inches at eaves (code requires 36")
  • Full valley coverage (36" wide minimum)
  • Around all penetrations

3. Synthetic Underlayment (Always)

  • We NEVER use felt paper
  • Synthetic is waterproof, tear-resistant, and lasts 30+ years
  • Felt absorbs moisture and degrades

4. Open Valley Method

  • Superior water shedding
  • Easier to maintain
  • Longer lifespan than closed valleys

5. Thorough Cleanup

  • Magnetic sweep (multiple passes)
  • Gutter cleaning included
  • Haul away all debris

Common Mistakes (DIY & Low-Quality Contractors)

1. Under-Nailing

Using 4 nails instead of 6. This is the #1 cause of shingle blow-offs in our area.

2. Skipping Ice & Water Shield

Saving $200-400 can cost $5,000-15,000 in water damage from ice dams.

3. Using Felt Paper

Felt degrades in 5-10 years. Synthetic lasts 30+ years.

4. Improper Flashing

90% of roof leaks are caused by flashing failures, not shingle failures.

5. Poor Cleanup

Nails left in driveway cause flat tires. Nails in lawn are dangerous.

The Bottom Line

A complete roof replacement is a complex, multi-day process requiring specialized knowledge, equipment, and experience. Every step matters - from tear-off to final cleanup.

At RJ Roofing Bros, we've perfected this process over 8+ years and hundreds of roofs. We know the details that prevent leaks and ensure longevity: 6-nail protocol, extended ice & water shield, synthetic underlayment, open valleys, and thorough cleanup. We warranty our work because we do it right.

DIY roofing saves $3,000-5,000 in labor but risks $10,000-20,000 in mistakes. Unless you have professional training and experience, hire a qualified contractor.


Ready for a professional roof replacement? Call (604) 997-1292 for a free quote.

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