Before You Start

Skill Level: Advanced (Professional recommended)

Time Required: 2-4 days for average home (1,500 sq ft roof)

Cost: $2,000-3,000 in materials (DIY) vs. $5,000-7,000 (professional installation)

Required Tools

Safety Equipment:

• Fall protection harness and rope (for steep roofs)
• Roof brackets and planks (for working platforms)
• Soft-soled shoes with good grip
• Safety glasses
• Work gloves

Installation Tools:

• Roofing nailer (pneumatic) or hammer
• Air compressor (if using pneumatic nailer)
• Utility knife with hook blades
• Chalk line
• Tape measure
• Straight edge (4-6 feet)
• Tin snips (for cutting flashing)
• Caulk gun
• Ladder with stabilizer

Materials Needed:

• Architectural shingles (calculate: roof square footage ÷ 100 = squares needed, add 10% waste)
• Synthetic underlayment (same square footage as roof)
• Ice & water shield (for eaves, valleys, penetrations)
• Starter strip shingles
• Ridge cap shingles
• Drip edge (eave and rake)
• Valley flashing (if applicable)
• Roofing nails (1-1/4" ring shank, 2 lbs per square)
• Roofing cement
• Caulk/sealant

Step 1: Tear-Off Old Roofing

Why This Matters:

Installing over old shingles voids most warranties and reduces new roof lifespan. Always tear off to bare deck.

Process:

1. Start at ridge: Work from top down (shingles overlap downward)
2. Use roofing shovel: Slide under shingles, pry up nails
3. Remove all materials: Shingles, underlayment, nails
4. Inspect deck: Replace any rotted or damaged plywood/OSB
5. Clean thoroughly: Sweep deck, remove all nails and debris
6. Dispose properly: Rent dumpster or use dump trailer

Inspection Points:

• Check for soft spots (indicates rot)
• Look for water stains (indicates previous leaks)
• Verify deck thickness (minimum 7/16" OSB or 1/2" plywood)
• Check rafter spacing (should be 16" or 24" on center)

Step 2: Install Drip Edge at Eaves

Why This Matters:

Drip edge protects fascia from water damage and directs water into gutters. It MUST be installed before underlayment at eaves.

Installation:

1. Start at one end: Align drip edge flush with fascia
2. Nail every 12 inches: Use roofing nails along top edge
3. Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet
4. Extend past fascia: 1/2 inch overhang into gutter

Step 3: Install Ice & Water Shield

Why This Matters:

Ice & water shield is your last line of defense against ice dams and wind-driven rain. This is critical in Fraser Valley.

Installation:

1. Start at eaves: Apply first course along entire eave
2. Extend 36-72 inches: Code minimum is 36", we recommend 72" in Hope/Harrison
3. Peel and stick: Remove backing, press firmly to deck
4. Overlap 6 inches: Where courses meet
5. Apply to valleys: 36 inches wide (18" each side of valley center)
6. Seal penetrations: Around chimneys, skylights, plumbing vents

Critical: Ice & water shield goes OVER drip edge at eaves, UNDER drip edge at rakes.

Step 4: Install Synthetic Underlayment

Why This Matters:

Underlayment is your primary waterproofing layer. Synthetic is superior to felt paper in every way.

Installation:

1. Start at eaves: Align with drip edge, overlap ice & water shield by 6 inches
2. Roll horizontally: Work up the roof
3. Overlap 6 inches: Each course overlaps the one below
4. Nail or staple: Every 12 inches along seams, every 24 inches in field
5. Keep wrinkle-free: Smooth as you go
6. Overlap ridges: 6 inches over peak

Step 5: Install Drip Edge at Rakes

Why This Matters:

Rake drip edge goes OVER underlayment (opposite of eaves). This ensures proper water flow.

Installation:

1. Apply over underlayment: Along gable ends (rakes)
2. Nail every 12 inches: Through underlayment into deck
3. Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet

Step 6: Install Valley Flashing (If Applicable)

Why This Matters:

Valleys handle 2-4x the water volume of flat sections. Proper flashing is critical.

Open Valley Method (Recommended):

1. Center flashing in valley: 24-36 inch wide metal
2. Nail edges only: 1 inch from edge, every 12 inches
3. Overlap upslope: 12 inches where pieces meet
4. Seal laps: With roofing cement

Step 7: Install Starter Strip

Why This Matters:

Starter strip provides a seal for the first course of shingles and prevents wind uplift at eaves.

Installation:

1. Use starter strip shingles: Pre-made or cut regular shingles
2. Align with drip edge: Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch
3. Nail 3-4 inches from edge: Above adhesive strip
4. Butt joints tightly: No gaps between pieces

Step 8: Establish Chalk Lines

Why This Matters:

Chalk lines ensure straight courses. Crooked shingles are immediately visible and unprofessional.

Process:

1. Measure shingle exposure: Typically 5-5/8 inches for architectural shingles
2. Snap horizontal lines: Every 2-3 courses (10-17 inches)
3. Snap vertical lines: Every 3-4 feet to maintain alignment
4. Use contrasting chalk: Red or blue (not white - hard to see)

Step 9: Install First Course of Shingles

Critical First Course:

1. Align with chalk line: Bottom edge on line
2. Overhang drip edge: 1/2 to 3/4 inch at eaves and rakes
3. Nail placement:
   • Standard: 4 nails per shingle (code minimum)
   • High-wind areas (Hope): 6 nails per shingle
   • Nail just below adhesive strip
   • Nail 1 inch from edges
4. Nail depth: Flush with shingle surface (not over-driven, not under-driven)

Step 10: Install Subsequent Courses

Pattern:

Architectural shingles use a random pattern. Follow manufacturer's offset requirements (typically 6 inches minimum).

Installation:

1. Offset joints: Each course shifts 6+ inches from course below
2. Align with chalk lines: Check every 2-3 courses
3. Maintain exposure: Consistent 5-5/8 inch exposure
4. Nail properly: 4-6 nails per shingle, just below adhesive strip
5. Work across and up: Complete one course before starting next

Step 11: Cut Shingles for Valleys and Rakes

Valley Cuts (Open Valley):

1. Snap chalk line: 2-3 inches from valley center
2. Cut shingles: Along chalk line with utility knife
3. Clip corners: 45-degree cut at valley to direct water
4. Seal edges: Dab of roofing cement under cut edge

Rake Cuts:

1. Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch: Past drip edge
2. Cut from top: Cleaner cut than cutting from bottom
3. Use straight edge: For clean, straight cuts

Step 12: Install Ridge Cap Shingles

Why This Matters:

Ridge caps seal the peak and provide wind resistance. Improper installation causes leaks and blow-offs.

Installation:

1. Use ridge cap shingles: Pre-made or cut from regular shingles
2. Start at end opposite prevailing wind: Wind blows over laps, not under
3. Overlap 5-6 inches: Each cap overlaps previous
4. Nail each side: 1 inch from edge, 5-1/2 inches from end
5. Seal final cap: Dab of roofing cement under last cap

Step 13: Flash Penetrations

Plumbing Vents:

1. Install pipe boot: Slide over pipe, nail flange
2. Shingle over flange: Top and sides covered, bottom exposed
3. Seal with caulk: Around pipe-to-boot junction

Chimneys:

1. Install base flashing: At chimney base (downslope)
2. Install step flashing: One piece per shingle course on sides
3. Install counter flashing: Embedded in mortar joints, overlaps step flashing
4. Install cricket: On upslope side (required for chimneys wider than 30 inches)

Step 14: Final Inspection

Checklist:

• All shingles properly nailed (no visible nails, no lifted edges)
• Straight courses (no waves or dips)
• Proper overhang at eaves and rakes
• Valley cuts clean and sealed
• Ridge caps secure and overlapping correctly
• All penetrations properly flashed
• No exposed underlayment or ice & water shield
• Gutters cleaned of debris

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Under-Nailing

Using fewer than 4 nails per shingle. This is the #1 cause of shingle blow-offs.

2. Over-Driving Nails

Driving nails too deep cuts through shingle and creates leak points.

3. Improper Nail Placement

Nailing too high or too low reduces wind resistance and causes leaks.

4. Skipping Ice & Water Shield

Saving $200-400 on ice & water shield can cost $5,000-15,000 in water damage.

5. Using Felt Paper Instead of Synthetic

Felt absorbs moisture and degrades. Synthetic is superior in every way.

6. Poor Valley Installation

Valleys are high-stress areas. Improper flashing causes leaks.

The Bottom Line

Shingle installation is technically straightforward but physically demanding and dangerous. Mistakes are expensive and can void warranties.

If you're uncomfortable with heights, lack proper tools, or have a steep/complex roof, hire a professional. The $3,000-4,000 labor cost buys expertise, speed, safety, and warranty protection.

Need professional installation? Call (604) 997-1292 for a free quote.